I recently achieved a dream by embarking on a mountaineering climb in the breathtaking Vilcanota mountain range, near Cusco, Peru. The main mountain to summit was the formidable Apu Ausangate , towering at 6384 meters.
Our expedition began in the early hours, departing at 4 AM to summit the Mariposa Sur peak, standing proud at 5500 meters. The initial part of our ascent involved navigating through moraine: a rocky and treacherous terrain that tested our resolve. The paths, slippery and fraught because of loose and frozen stones, demanded a careful step As we reached the glacier’s base, the mountaineering climb began. Loaded in full mountaineering gear—ice axes, crampons, protective clothing, helmets, and harnesses—we were tied to each other by rope so when someone slips, the teammembers anchor themselves to the glacier so no-one finds out how deep a crevasse really is. Because most of the times you pass over a bridge over a crevasse and you look down, you don’t even see the bottom. Ascending the glacier was a study in precision and trust. Each step was a conversation, each movement a coordination of safety and progress. Reaching the summit of Mariposa Sur was not just a physical achievement but a moment of collective triumph, celebrating our teamwork and the bonds we had strengthened along the way. Yet, this peak was only our practice run.
Preparation for the giant Ausangate involved a rest day at base camp, allowing both our equipment and bodies to recharge. Loaded with 20-kilogram backpacks, we then pushed towards the high camp, positioned strategically at the glacier’s base. At high camp, we got rappel training—a crucial skill for the descent. This practice ensured efficiency and safety for what was to come during our summit push. At 4PM we went to bed, because at 11PM, our mountaineering climb started. In the dark, we used headlamps to light our way over the glacier until dawn broke, painting the sky with hues of deep red transitioning to vibrant blues as we approached the steep 60-meter ice wall. Climbing this ice wall was an intense ordeal. Every muscle strained against gravity, each pick of the axe a calculated move for security. Unfortunately, teamwork issues arose; insufficient coordination slowed our progress, highlighting the critical nature of communication in such endeavors. This delay cost us dearly, making it impossible to reach the summit within our planned timeframe.
Though we didn’t reach the top of Ausangate, the journey was far from a failure. I learned a lot about the most extreme outdoor sports that is mountaineering, while pushing the limits on my physical and mental capabilities. More importantly, it underscored the essence of mountaineering— is not just the climb, but the preparation, the teamwork, and the sheer will to persevere.
You will find more adventure travels adventures, experienced by the founder of DS Adventure Travels at the Inspiration page!