The Ardennes, with its undulating landscapes and dense forests, has always beckoned adventurers and nature lovers alike. My recent two-day trek in La Roche en Ardenne, Belgium, with my faithful companion Yuki, was a testament to the raw beauty and the unexpected challenges this region presents.
Our journey began in Nadrin, where I parked at a free spot, setting off at 1 PM with a hefty 18kg backpack. My destination was a bivouac site, seemingly a straightforward 4-hour trek along the roads, but the mountain paths had other plans. As I embarked, I underestimated the complexity of navigating these trails and the dwindling daylight.
The first landmark on our route was the Barrage de Nisramont. Although the man-made waterfall didn’t quite stir my soul, the journey there was a marvel of nature’s design. The path, at times, merged with the river, making our trek not just a walk but an adventure. Following the river’s course, we climbed and descended hills, each summit offering a panoramic reward that made every effort worthwhile.
As dusk approached around 5:15 PM, the trail demanded more from us. The darkness enveloped the path, turning our adventure into a nocturnal escapade, guided only by the beam of a headlamp. The crossing at Le Vieux Chateau, which might sound quaint in daylight, became a daunting challenge at night. Warning signs, barking dogs, and an eerie totem pole in a backyard added a layer of thrill (and slight terror) to our journey.
Navigating errors and a dwindling headlamp battery added tension to our trek. Opting for the phone’s light, I was cautious, knowing my power bank’s limited charge was all we had. The unexpected sanctuary came in the form of camping Tro Do Way. Despite being officially closed, the kindness of strangers offered us a night’s rest. They informed me that it was hunting season in The Ardennes and that bivouacking even in the designated spots was forbidden. Thus they also saved me from a hefty fine!
The dawn of the second day brought renewed energy and a desire for new sights. With a partially charged phone, I aimed for the Barrage de Nisramont, a checkpoint that signified safety. Misdirections and detours tested my resolve, but the wilderness, with its serene beauty and the satisfaction of a well-earned meal from the emergency ration, made every moment worthwhile.
As the second day neared its end, the familiar sight of our starting point brought a sense of accomplishment. The trek, covering over 28.5km of Ardennes terrain, was a journey of endurance, discovery, and the unbreakable bond between a man and his dog.
The drive home, despite fatigue and traffic detours, was a quiet reflection on the adventure that was. Surviving the Ardennes wasn’t just about enduring the physical journey but also about embracing the unexpected and finding joy in the challenges.